Started from 4th of June bus from ISBT at 9:30
Recahed back on 10th June morning 4:30am.
Recording entire flow of events that occurred during that Trip
Preparation Phase-
So this trip was planned by me as I have heard so much about Kedarnath Ji and I was eager to visit there. Since May - July is the prime season , so I thought I should visit that time . This time also I was thinking of travelling solo but my brother who just completed 12th wanted a trek/outing , so I decided that we 2 would be going. I started to get information from net as to where to stay, food, clothes, hotels, searching forums, asking questions of fb groups related to travel. It really becomes a hectic process when you try to plan something and since I was dependent on public transport, so I have to plan each and every thing accordingly and also keep the required buffer. Since this was a prime season of people coming to pay homage to Lord Shiva, I decided to pre-book hotels, bus tickets, stay at kedarnath ji . Also, I did an online registration at chardham yatra portal to avoid queues at venue. Some of my friends did pay a visit to Kedarnath ji in May, so I got some tips from them . I booked a hotel at Sitapur which was 2km from Sonprayag from where we can get shared cabs to Gaurikund (4-5 km) and trek starts from Gaurikund. Since I was not able to get hotels in Sonprayag , I chose Sitapur for stay. I got bus from ISBT to Guptkashi and after that, there were shared cabs available till Sonprayag/Sitapur. Booked beds at Kedarnath ji as suggested by one of my colleagues. So, after kedarnath ji , I was infact planning to go to Tungnath ji and take my brother at Chandrashila and show him the beautiful 360 view of mountains from there.
Day 1- 4th June
Bags were packed and we need to reach Kashmere Gate ISBT Terminal at around 9:00 PM to catch bus towards Guptkashi. My brother was insisted by one of his friends to tag along and so, we were finally 3 people - me, my brother and his friend going for this trip. Since I was the eldest among them , I need to take care of everything (Responsibilities again on my shoulder )!!Phew!
We catch the bus on time and tucked our bags at respective cabinets .
Day 2- 5th June
Bus made a halt at some point midway at around 1:00 AM at a dhaba. We got out , I ordered a thali and had my dinner , then we got in and the bus resumes its journey . At around 7 am in morning, we reached Haridwar , then Rishikesh after that . The mountains came into view now and my brother ( this was his first trip to mountains) was fascinated by the ranges and he did have a privilege to enjoy the beauty as he was sitting near to window seat. At Devprayag, I showed them the point where the 2 rivers were merging .After some time,The bus halted at Srinagar where we had Tea and snacks. Then came Rudraprayag, Augustmuni and finally the bus completed its journey at Guptkashi at around 12:30 afternoon. We deboarded the bus and had the lunch from a local dhaba. Then we enquired with some locals as to how we can reach Sitapur from Guptkashi. There were jeeps available that ferry between Guptkashi and Sitapur but due to tourist rush and traffic in hills, these were not easy to get. Finally, after an hour or so, we got a jeep which could take us to our hotel in Sitapur. We were more than halfway towards our destination and there we realised that there was a 4-5km traffic jam after that and we were sitting in jeeps for more than 1:30 hrs . We decided to cover the rest of the journey by foot as we don't have any other option left . We were already tired after a long bus journey and this traffic jam was making it even worse. It was tiring but refreshing at the same time as I was smitten by the aura of the place. I could even see helicopters whirring above us to take yatris to the pilgrimage. So after 30-40 mins of walk , we reached the hotel at Sitapur.
I already booked a room for us earlier by paying a certain amount. We checked in and rested for a while .The time was around 5pm evening, so we decided that we would start the journey to Kedarnath ji by tomorrow early morning.
From our room , we had a beautiful view of the Mandakini river flowing across the region. Sitapur is a village and the locals livelihood stands on the tourism that flows mainly from May to June. All the residents have turned up their houses as tourist accommodations / hotels . They even serve food and other imp. Things for tourist. Going in into these places at peak time which is primarily May -June may cost you more than the off peak months. We were so exhausted that we landed right on the bed as soon as we got a room. We have planned to start our journey to kedarnath ji by tomorrow early morning and our goal was to reach the shrine by evening. After resting for some time, we quickly freshened up. I went out to talk to locals and to gather information that may be important for tomorrow journey. Also, I shopped for some essentials that we do require. The place was quite serene and the cool breeze with rustling from water waves that attack the shore is what makes it quite enchanting. The people are quite helpful , friendly and jovial. I think this is what the city dwellers may learn from these simple people. I got myself a raincover as a protective cover incase of rain during the trek. The hotel staff arranged a simple meal for us and we had the same in our room.
We got to bed early so as to rise early as we do have a long trek ahead of us tomorrow.
Day 3 - 6th June
We rose early at around 4:00 am. We started arranging our backpacks and taking in turns to use washroom to freshen up. After paying the hotel room expenses , we walked out of the hotel and landed at a dhabba nearby to have a quick breakfast. After that we started our walk to Sonprayag as we were told that we would be able to get a jeep from there that would take us to Gaurikund and Gaurikund is the starting place of the long trek to the shrine.
Sometimes I was amazed as to how I could get up early when I am travelling whereas when I am at my home , I am always a lazy brat sleeping too long. Well the travel has some excitement factor that kept me on toes and that may have triggered my senses to wake up early :)
When we are halfway to Sonprayag , we could see a stream of cars packing the road and one of the buses was not able to cross as the car was causing a hindrance. This has lead to a still stop at that junction. Neither that bus was able to move further nor the other travellers on foot. The car owner was nowhere to be seen. I think the people who visit the places should keep in mind as to where they are parking their vehicles . Despite of the fact that Sonprayag has a huge place down the hill to park cars , the road was filled with cars at one side.
Somehow, the bus was asked to reverse and the travellers could make their way forward. We reached sonprayag and I could see a huge line of people getting their registration from the adjacent police station since that was mandatory. Well, I did that online for my group and so, we went forward only to see a huge line again of people waiting for their turn to get boarded to the jeeps inorder to reach Gaurikund. I was not accustomed to these huge lines . I went ahead just to see how long it will take us to come forward. Well, I figured out that it won't be less than 2-3 hours when we would be able to reach at the front. So, we all decided that we would walk by foot to Gaurikund.
Since it's early morning and our spirits were high, we started the trek from that junction. We were joined by some other like minded people and we started to ascend. It took us around an hour or so to reach at Gaurikund as I checked the clock which was pointing now to 8 am.
Gaurikund is the last place upto which you could travel by jeep / personal car. After that , you need to be on your own. You can also avail ponies and palkies from here. The place has been reconstructed after the floods and it too has some hotels for tourists. Apart from the cold mandakini river flowing , there is a kund which contains hot water. People bathe in this kund and consider the same as auspicious. We quickly found a cloak room and decided to put some bags there to lessen the load for the trek. After that we had a tea at the dhabba and then resumed our journey to the shrine.
I could see almost hundred ponies at what looks to be their shelter. The distance of kedarnath shrine from Gaurikund is 14km. I thought that I would easily be able to complete the same in 6-7hours as I have some experience from earlier treks. The only novice we have in our group is my younger sibling . This was his first trek to hills and he was already excited about this trek after watching Kedarnath movie.
Well, we started at around 9 am from Gaurikund , initial ascend was normal ,there is a single passage for both people on foot and those for ponies. SO you better make way for the ponies inorder to avoid them kicking you out. The trek path was crowded as expected due to the busy season. I saw a disabled man covering the path by lifting his torso through his hands , his faith and determination could never be stalled by lack of limbs in his body. At one place in trek , I saw a small waterfall gushing out from a height from the opposite mountain. I also met some small waterfalls in the trek and drank water from them. We could easily find some small shops , resting places and some small temples belonging to different gods in the course of the trek.
The main fuel for most of those on foot was the nimbu paani that was served after every Km or so.
Nothing is better than that on any sunny day to energise your body.
The network coverage for Vodafone was available upto some extent of the trek (2-4 kms).
The weather was playing its turns to turn sunny or cloudy . I could now see the snow peaked mountains lying far ahead.
While my brother and his friend were lagging behind me, I have covered quite some distance. I met some people on the way and decided to be part of their team just to be high in spirits as it is good to be in a team rather than walking alone. After some point, I crossed the bridge on the river . I laid down myself on the shore of the river for some time just to relax and enjoy the warmth of the river. The river here has a good speed so it is not advisable to step into the river as it could kick you out and you can possibly land on the stone boulders lying across or in the river. I took some pictures, made a video covering the surroundings and the bursting river and stood up to resume my journey.
So, now as we have ascended and descended the previous mountain , the bridge now shows me at the beginning of another mountain which I need to ascend. The width of the track here is quite wide with respect to the earlier one mainly because as this was the new path that was created after the 2013 floods. I could hear people enchanting various names of Lord Shiva and rejoicing while traversing the path. Whenever I was exhausted and needed some strength, I too enchanted Lord Shiva to give me strength. I lost the group I became a part of earlier , so now I was walking alone , catching in somebody or the other on the way up. After some point , I decided to rest and wait for the other 2 group members. One of them arrived after 20-30 minutes but my younger sibling was nowhere to be seen. Well, I was a bit worried not that he may have lost path but on the fact that may be if he has abandoned the trek. Well , I and the other one waited for my brother for quite some time , then he comes walking slowly , catching a breath here and there . Now, we all were halfway through the journey and the sun is taking its toll. I requested both of the them to be with each other and to ascend as they wish to , there is no need to hurry. Enjoy the journey , the peaks , the river flowing and the cool breeze . But I was in a hurry as I needed to reach the shrine by 5-6 PM.
So, I resumed the trek and met the same group people I befriended earlier and joined them. Now, it has started to drizzle , we started covering ourselves with what we have. The drizzling lasted for 10-20 minutes . We started taking shortcuts following the locals. Shortcuts ( going through the mountain path rather than the paved path) are strenuous but you do reach quickly as opposed to the paved path. For first timers, I wouldn't recommend these shortcuts and I should not have even tried that but I wanted to cover the distance as soon as possible. At one point of the time in these shortcuts , there is a small stream flowing and we have to cross that patiently as if we step on rock wrongly , we might end up down the mountain. That was quite scary but I managed to do so with proper precautions. After that I only took shortcuts that appear to be less risky and more fruitful, otherwise , I stick to the paved path. At every 2-3 km, the tent toilets and the medicine facilities were available.
After some time , I came cross a bed of frozen snow and some workers were removing the snow from the paved path in order to make the way for tourists and the ponies. Be careful when you are stepping on these frozen snow patches , they are treacherous. We should not hurry while crossing these snowy patches .Also, the more height you gain, less the oxygen you get and you should take some rest and not strain yourself. So, I was quick to take breaks whenever I felt and the idea is not to take long breaks . Take small breaks of 5-10mins and then move , if you take long breaks it is difficult to continue the momentum.
The sun appears to have taken some rest and the weather got a bit chilly. I was awed by the beauty of these snowy peaked mountains . I was so tempted to climb to them and see what's on the other side or just sit and be with nature for some time. I am not able to comprehend as to why the peace prevails in these places as if by our very nature we are bound to be with nature and as close we get to it, we find our hidden nectar , our tranquility, our joy and the feeling of oneness. To me, this was not just a religious trip , it was a way to get back to my joy, way to remind me that there's more to life than just chasing after money . Let's just break these thoughts and get back to the place,
There were clouds and the mist was all around. I could see some helicopters whizzing past us and how eloquent they appear in the valley. There were police officials controlling the traffic of ponies at some places and even fining those who are practicing the trade even though they are underage. Most of the locals are being supported by this business. Some ponies do lose their balance here and there and often they slip, it is not easy to man those ponies but the masters do maintain good command on these animals. Apart from ponies, there is a horizontal (bagghi )type thing which 4 people carry and one person/ 1 child can sit in the required seat. Then there are porters that can carry 1 person on their backs in a wooden basket.
I checked with people returning and it appears that I was close to the temple place. I found a tea stall and asked for a tea. I can't miss a tea in this eloquent weather and in this chilly winds. Post that, I started my journey upwards and finally made a stop when I reached the helipad place where the helicopters in pair were transporting people to enable them to have darshan. There were government guest houses mostly and they can be booked online. I already booked the beds online for the night just to avoid the hassle. These guest houses were powered by solar panels employed on the rooftops. I checked my watch and it was close to 5:15 PM and as the sun was nowhere, the weather was bit chilly. I could see the Kedarnath temple from that distance. The snowy peaked mountains right behind the temple are magnificent and majestic.
I went to the GMVN guest house, showed my online tickets and got my beds and rested for some minutes and finally started my journey towards the temple. I just could not wait any more longer to unravel this beautiful place. I was totally mesmerized by the place. There is an icy cold mandakini river flowing from those majestic mountains down to the valley. It was so icy cold that I could not place my hand in it for 1-2 minutes , yet I could see people bathing in them and that too in evening.
I could see a long line of pilgrims waiting for the darshan. Since , I wanted to explore the place and not do darshan right ahead, I started following the other way to reach the temple which is through those big stairs. I could see the damaged properties which were the result of the 2013 floods.
Finally, the long wait was over and the magnificent and famous kedarnath temple was just right in front of me with the Nandi (Bull) facing the temple side. There are 2 entrances to the temple, one was used to cater to the people waiting in long lines and the other one catered the VIPs ( the helicopter ones). Right behind the temple is the famous stone that helped in keeping the temple intact by directing the water current to flow sideways and thus saving the temple parisar. That stone(shila) at the rear side is marked with photographs of people who lost their lives in those floods (not sure).The other adjacent side is marked with saffron tilaks as the stone is also worshipped.
Just to the left of the temple on the adjacent mountain, there is a temple of Lord bhairava who is worshipped and is considered as one of the guards of the temple.(not sure). I tried to capture some good shots with my phone. The fencing was in place so as to avoid any future mishaps and some work was also under construction . How picturesque was this temple surrounded by the mighty mountains. After spending some time and rejoicing the aura, I realized that I need to reach to the guest house and see if two of my group members have finally reached or not. I started towards the guest house and found that the two were finally there , utterly exhausted and lying on the beds.
The aarti would be performed at around 7:30 and I need to rush as I couldn't miss that. I enquired if they were willing to join me but they were not able to get up from their beds. Well, I was not that tired or may be the place has infused an enthusiasm in me and I no longer was paying heed to any stiffness or numbness in my legs.
I reached at the temple spot again in midst of the chants of Lord Shiva. Lights were out and the temple was appearing to be a golden shinning dome. There was a rush of the people but I managed to get a place somewhat near to temple. The gates were open and since the crowd was not looming at the gate end , I could see the deity from the distance partially and a another small nandi in the temple. The large bell was rung continuously and the air was filled with chants of the aarti.
After the aarti was over, I quickly reached to the guest house. Now, I unpacked my bag and shoved my body in the blanket to get some warmth and finally some rest. After some time, we decided to have dinner and call off the day. Both of them decided to dine in the guest house canteen and I decided to take a walk and explore some options as I was not that hungry and could suffice for a maggi and a hot tea. The lights were hardly there as the solar panels appear to be the only source of electricity . So, with my phone light I marched on. Finally got the required at a stall near the temple area. The local pahadi people always captivate me with their benevolence and warmth. It is not easy to operate stalls at night as the temperatures drops low. But still they operate as people lined up for the darshan gets to these stalls to refresh themselves. These people are always at service and they don't demand high charges for their service whereas they are in a position to get what they want.
To them the service matters most than the monetary benefit they get out of that.
From one of the pilgrims, I get to know that people were waiting in queue for darshan since 7-8 hours and finally got to pay their homage to the deity. Though there is a token system but it was hardly followed. I think a proper system needs to be developed and implemented well so as to avoid these long waiting hours. We didn't register ourselves into the queue as we could see a long queue already lined up and it was hard to get darshan at that day. After the tea , I started descending so as to get back to the guest house canteen. Well , two of my mates did manage to get the thali but the puri was dry and cold ( can't help it as the temp was lower) . They did manage to satiate their hunger and we return to our beds . There were few lights that were on , even in our bedded room we don't seem to have access to the electricity, so we were operating by the torchlight of our mobiles.
Note - It is advisable to register for the guest house beds online earlier before your visit as it is hard to find the beds later as the accommodation is less and turnover is more, so most of the people end up being in make shift tents .
Our plan next morning was to try to get darshan of the deity, Some people advise that we should be in queue as early as possible tomorrow morning . Well, I didn't care about that as our bodies need rest and I don't want any of us to be in queue so early in morning due to the freezing temperature.
My idea was to relax and enjoy the aura. There is no point in getting to the queue early in morning and then ending up deteriorating your health. I didn't even removed my jacket and pulled 2 blankets over me to get some warmth. It was my first experience getting into a zone where the temperature was dropping near to 0.


